Hovering on the horizon like a mirage in the desert, Las Vegas seems like paradise. But it's not the spectacular hotel facades, or even the lure of winning it big that draws millions of visitors a year: it's the promise of trading humdrum reality for a world of total escapism. People come to Vegas to indulge themselves with food, glitzy shows, and slot machines.
In this pursuit of pleasure, Vegas is making a serious effort to swap lowbrow garishness for high-end sophistication. It now has a real art museum -- the kind without a single portrait of Elvis on velvet. Instead, the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art boasts an impressive collection of works by Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet and other masters. If you'd rather own beautiful things than just look at them, the shops at Via Bellagio feature pricey retailers like Chanel, Armani, Prada and Tiffany.
Across the strip is the Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes with Herve Leger and Jimmy Choo boutiques set in an indoor Italian piazza, complete with canals, gondolas, and singing gondoliers.
Gourmets will be pleased to find the city branching out from all-you-can-eat buffets to fine cuisine. Some of the best restaurants include Renoir at the Mirage, AlizA? at the Top of the Palms high-end sushi at Nobu in the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, and Mandalay Bay's Aureole, which features a four-story wine tower that holds over 12,000 bottles. But the real attraction is watching the "wine fairies" fly through the tower via a system of electronic pulleys as they retrieve the rare vintages.
Nothing says decadence like the Turkish baths at the Spa Mandalay, except perhaps the Oasis Spa next door at the Luxor, open 24-hours a day. But the undisputed pampering champion is the Canyon Ranch SpaClub at The Venetian, operated by long time favorite of the rich and famous, Canyon Ranch Spa in Tucson.
Having become acclimatized to the hedonism, Las Vegas residents tend to shy away from the strip mega resorts' high prices and crowds, hunting instead for good value and convenience. Some favorite haunts include the Rio for its Carnival World Buffet and Austin's Steakhouse at Texas Station. Casinos Binion's Horseshoe, The Palms, and Green Valley Ranch are frequented for their "loose" slots, poker and great deals.
But don't think permanent inhabitants of Sin City are all hardened party animals and non-stop gamblers. It has schools, churches and community groups to service the increasing number of families and retirees flocking to the city. In fact, Las Vegas is the fastest growing city in the U.S., partly due to the year-round mild weather. It also has reasonable housing prices, reduced taxes and low unemployment rates. After all, it takes a lot of people to maintain paradise.
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